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Anodize USA

Frequently Asked Questions

What is ASF?

ASF anodizing is predetermining constant amperage (ASF) and allowing the voltage to climb as more volts are needed. Doing so, creates a more even oxide formation versus setting the voltage at a fixed level creating less oxide toward the middle and end of a cycle which can prolong the anodizing cycle. Because oxide is created at the same level throughout ASF anodizing is generally faster and generates a more consistent oxide.

How critical is temperature in an anodizing tank?

In anodizing solutions the temperature directly affects conductivity of the bath. Increased temperature increases conductivity which can lead to burning on critical parts and aggressiveness of the anodizing solution making the oxide created soft or to even dissolve. The closer the temperature can be held, the more consistent your overall anodizing results will be. Most of our systems are designed to hold +/- 2° f.

What type of cathodes should I use?

The use of aluminum cathodes overall will be the most efficient from an energy stand point and are similar in initial purchase cost to most setups that have been used in older less sophisticated operations. When honestly evaluating the difference, you will choose aluminum and Anodize USA’s “snappable” cathodes are the most reliable.

How should I chill my anodizing solution?

To chill an anodizing tank some form of heat exchanger must be used. Tank space and consistent cooling are your first priority. Using an in tank coil will work but its ability to cool the whole tank relies on the air agitation for even distribution. The less air you use the less cooling response you will have. Anodize USA does not rely on air to move cooled solution. We use an outside heat exchanger and pump to quickly add needed cooling evenly through the anodizing tank. This gives us the ability to hold temperature to tighter parameters than using cooling coils.

Chillers are a dime a dozen. So what’s the big deal?

Two words: sizing and service. Sizing a chiller is extremely important. Seldom do I see a chiller sized properly for the work being done. Your local chiller guy probably knows the units inside and out but has no clue what anodizing a part entails. Knowing the process becomes imperative. Buy the chiller from someone who knows how to size it (Anodize USA). Buy a name brand with local nation wide service (YORK from Anodize USA) and avoid the pain killers when you find out it wasn’t the right unit for the job.

Why not an automatic machine?

In my experience automation has limited application in job shop anodizing lines, especially hard coat. Since the oxide is formed from the underlying base material the condition, alloy and actual makeup of the aluminum will have a significant effect on the final oxide. These nuances cannot be compensated for by any automatic machine available today. Rewriting programs for every other load becomes unworkable and unproductive. A manual hoist will give the flexibility needed to produce consistent work when different parts or alloys are running. And as an added benefit you s ave serious $$$$$$$.

What type of anodizing rectifier should I buy?

For type II commercial anodizing clear or dyed parts generally 24 volts is needed. As far as amp capacity a good rule to follow is 10-12 amps for every sq. foot of parts to be processes. To do type III "hard coat" 75 volts should cover most applications for thickness around 2 mils. Amp capacity should be calculated at around 30 amps for every sq. ft of parts. Buy new-don't settle for a under or oversized used unit just to save on cost. You'll find new not that much more than used and have fewer problems keeping it working.